La moda por todo lo alto: esta exposición muestra los trajes de asistentes de vuelo más espectaculares de los últimos 85 años

Fashion In Flight

A veces, encontramos moda en estado puro en los lugares más insospechados. El Museo del aeropuerto de San Francisco (SFO Museum) es un buen ejemplo de ello, con la última exposición que ha inaugurado, y que muestra la evolución en los trajes de las asistentes de vuelo desde los años 30 del siglo pasado hasta la actualidad. Fashion in Flight: A History of Airline Uniform Design (La moda en vuelo: historia del diseño de los uniformes de aerolíneas) ofrece la posibilidad de ver trajes e imágenes de diseñadores como Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Oleg Cassini, Emilio Pucci o Vivienne Westwood, además de la evolución de la moda y las tendencias.

Los primeros trajes que se muestran datan de los años 30 y tienen la curiosidad de contar con una capa. Fueron diseñados para Boeing Air Transport (la actual United Airlines), inspirándose en los trajes de las enfermeras militares.

The earliest uniform design on display in "Fashion In Flight" is this beautiful green wool ensemble from United Air Lines. The style was worn from 1930 to 1932, and was originally created for the world’s first airline stewardess, registered nurse Ellen Church, who was hired in San Francisco! Read more on our tumblr! "#FashionInFlight: A History of Airline Uniform Design" is on display, pre-security, in the Aviation Museum and Library & the Main Hall of the International Terminal. The Aviation Museum is open daily, from 10am to 4:30pm, except holidays. Boeing Air Transport stewardess uniform with cape 1955 Reproduction of 1930-1932 uniform by United Air Lines SFO Museum Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation L2016.0301.001-.005, L2016.0307.001 2012.100.001-.005
Un vídeo publicado por SFO Museum (@sfomuseum) el 15 de Jun de 2016 a la(s) 5:09 PDT

En los años 40, las compañías aéreas americanas ya empezaron a preocuparse por el diseño de los trajes de sus azafatas, así que la TWA encargó el proyecto de esta nueva uniformidad a Howard Greer, famoso diseñador de Hollywood de la época, en 1944.

Hollywood fashion designer #HowardGreer (1896–1974) created this fitted suit in light blue wool gabardine. It was known as the “cutout” for the openwork TWA lettering on the shoulder. With suggestions from supervisor of hostess services Ida Staggers, Greer introduced the “blou-slip,” a combined undergarment in rayon and satin that did not need constant tucking in. The triangular jacket flap could be unbuttoned to cover the TWA lettering, allowing the hostess to smoke or have a cocktail while off duty. See this uniform on display in "#FashionInFlight: A History of Airline Uniform Design", on display, pre-security, in the International Terminal. http://bit.ly/fashioninflight
Una foto publicada por SFO Museum (@sfomuseum) el 15 de Jul de 2016 a la(s) 5:32 PDT

Oleg Cassini, el diseñador de cabecera de Jacqueline Kennedy, fue el elegido para diseñar los trajes también de la TWA en 1955. Creó un modelo de invierno en lana color marrón, y el que se puede observar en la imagen, que era de color verde.

In 1955, designer Oleg Cassini introduced a fitted suit for TWA hostesses that was issued for five years. In a medium brown wool for winter, this summer version in lightweight green wool has a collarless jacket and belted skirt. The embroidered lettering was repeated on the cotton blouse. The colors were coordinated with the cabin interiors of the airline’s Lockheed Constellations for trans-Atlantic service at the height of the propliner era. #WomeninAviation More flight attendant fashion history will be on view in "Fashion In Flight: A History of Airline Uniform Design." Part of the exhibition is already installed, pre-security, in the International Terminal and the Aviation Museum and Library. #FashionInFlight TWA (Trans World Airlines) hostesses c. 1955 SFO Museum Collection Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. 2002.113.388
Una foto publicada por SFO Museum (@sfomuseum) el 1 de Jun de 2016 a la(s) 6:21 PDT

Los 60 llegaron por todo lo alto. Algunos trajes llevaron lo psicodélico a niveles que no imaginábamos (como este de Emilio Pucci de 1966), mientras que otros representaron el estilo que hoy identificamos con esa década de un solo vistazo, como este precioso vestido de Jean Louis, el diseñador del traje de Gilda:

Parisian by birth, Hollywood costumer #JeanLouis (1907–1997) designed for hundreds of leading ladies, including a famous strapless gown worn by Rita Hayworth in “Gilda.” A frequent nominee and Oscar-winner, Louis had a long engagement with #United Air Lines and created this uniform for the airline’s 4,500 stewardesses. Worn from 1968 to 1970, the all-season outfit came in Hawaiian Sunset and Maliblue with a Miami Sands stripe. Two optional dresses were also made in Miami Sands with a Hawaiian Sunset or Maliblue stripe, along with a tri-color “jet-a-long” version worn only in flight. Jean Louis’ popular A-line, double knit wool skimmer is slightly fitted and came with a choice of hemline length from top-of-the-knee to three inches above. The kepi-style hat playfully combines a military touch with the mod 1960s-look of the dress. Made of white vinyl or Hawaiian Sunset wool, the hat could be worn with a headscarf passed through the over-flap. This uniform is an early example of the design concept where outfits in different colors began allowing a degree of individualism, while unmistakably remaining company wear. Louis and others would develop this trend as airlines sought more wardrobe options. "#FashionInFlight: A History of Airline Uniform Design" is on display, pre-security, in the International Terminal. http://bit.ly/fashioninflight United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1968 Jean Louis Fashionaire, a Division of Hart, Schaffner & Marx Hat by Mae Hanauer SFO Museum Dress: Gift of Allen and Karen Bowman Hat: Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation Hat insignia: Gift of Georgia Panter Nielsen Dress insignia: Gift of Diane Willems Vaughan L2016.0301.048, .050, .127, .129 2005.018.083, 2006.017.044, 2012.100.054, 2015.088.008
Un vídeo publicado por SFO Museum (@sfomuseum) el 8 de Jul de 2016 a la(s) 5:26 PDT

La minifalda se consolidó en los años 70 y los estampados llenaron los aviones de colorido y moda, como en estos trajes que lucieron las asistentes de Continental Airlines de 1970 a 1973:

A new era of pluralism in fashion emerged in the 1970s, while space-age, psychedelic influences from the 1960s receded. Airlines now pursued a broader range of styles as they continued to create distinct identities through the use of company attire. Within most of the individual airlines, the concept of the uniform was rethought and designs were developed with a new approach. This bold mini-dress flight attendant uniform for Continental Airlines was issued from 1970 to 1973. Do you remember this uniform?#WomenInAviation #FashionInFlight See "Fashion In Flight: An History of Airline Uniform Design", pre-security, in the Aviation Museum and International Terminal. http://bit.ly/fashioninflight
Una foto publicada por SFO Museum (@sfomuseum) el 20 de Jul de 2016 a la(s) 5:15 PDT

Muchos de los diseñadores más reconocidos del mundo han diseñado colecciones para diferentes compañías aéreas, además de los ya mencionados: Balenciaga para Air France en 1969, Valentino para Trans World Airlines en 1971, Yves Saint Laurent para Qantas en 1986 o Vivienne Westwood para Virgin Atlantic Airways en 2014.

Imágenes | Instagram SFO Museum.

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